Blue Shampoo, Purple Shampoo or None for Grey Hair?

One thing I’ve learned from going gray and from talking to so many women going through the same journey is that we tend to buy purple shampoo before we even know whether we need it.

I understand why. The minute you start seeing more silver in your hair, you’re told that purple shampoo will keep it bright and beautiful.

But gray hair doesn’t automatically need purple shampoo.

Before you reach for a purple or blue shampoo, let’s talk about what these products actually do, when you might need one, and when you can simply leave your hair alone.

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When You’re Just Starting to Go Gray:

If you’re only a few months into your gray-hair journey, take a look at your roots first.

Your new gray growth may already be bright and clear, so there may be nothing to tone there. The older, dyed lengths are a different story. As that colour starts to fade, you may begin to see yellow, orange or brassy tones coming through.

So you don’t need to tone your new gray just because it’s gray. Look at the different parts of your hair and see where the unwanted warmth is actually showing up.

That’s what will tell you whether you need a toning shampoo and which one.

Purple or Blue: Which one do you actually need?

Here’s something I want you to stop doing: choosing your toning shampoo just because someone told you, “You’re blonde, so you need purple,” or “You’re brunette, so you need blue.”

It’s much simpler than that.

Look at the unwanted colour in your hair.

Is it looking yellow? That’s when you look at purple shampoo.

Is it looking orange or coppery? That’s when blue shampoo comes into the picture.

And this is especially important when you’re going gray because you can have bright silver roots and warmer, dyed lengths at the same time.

So don’t automatically reach for the purple bottle. First, figure out what you’re actually seeing.

After going grey, I have tried several purple shampoos in the last five years. And I must say, “The BTW Co. Purple Shampoo” is what my hair loves. This one and more purple shampoo suggestions are in this post.

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How to Use Purple or Blue Shampoo?

Once you know which one you need, the next question is pretty simple: how do you actually use it?

Wet your hair well and apply the shampoo, making sure it reaches the areas where you’re seeing the unwanted yellow or orange tones. Gently work it through and leave it on for the time suggested on the product.

And here’s something that often confuses people: you don’t necessarily have to shampoo with your regular shampoo first. Purple and blue shampoos are shampoos too, so they can clean your hair while depositing the pigment.

But if your hair is oily or has a lot of product buildup, then you may want to cleanse it first and use the toning shampoo afterwards.

If it’s your first time using one, I’d rather you start with less time than leave it on for too long. You can always increase the time the next time you use it.

How Often Should You Use Purple or Blue Shampoo?

There’s no magic number of times you need to use a toning shampoo.

Some women use it once a week. Some need it less often. And some may need it a little more frequently. It really depends on how quickly the unwanted tone shows up in your hair and how your hair responds to the product.

If you’re new to purple or blue shampoo, I’d start conservatively. Try it once a week, see how your hair looks after a few washes, and then decide whether you actually need it that often.

And remember what happened to me when I used too much purple: my hair started looking dull and greyish-blue. That was a good reminder that toning shampoo is not something I need to keep piling onto my hair.

Use it when your hair needs toning, not simply because it’s time to wash your hair.

A Few Things to Know Before Using Purple or Blue Shampoo:

I’ve learned a few things about toning shampoos the hard way, so before you start using one, here are a few things I’d keep in mind.

1. Always read the instructions:

I know we’re all guilty of sometimes just opening the bottle and getting started, but with toning shampoos, I’d actually read the instructions. Some are much stronger than others, and the recommended time can vary quite a bit.

2. Don’t keep going if you don’t see the result you want:

This is probably the biggest one.

If you use the shampoo once and your hair doesn’t look different enough, don’t immediately think, I’ll just do it again.

I’ve made that mistake myself. More toning doesn’t mean brighter silver. You can end up with dry hair and, instead of looking brighter, your hair can start looking dull, greyish or overly cool.

If the first wash didn’t give you the result you wanted, stop and look at your hair. Maybe you need a different toner, or maybe toning isn’t actually what your hair needs.

3. Don’t make it your everyday shampoo:

Your purple or blue shampoo doesn’t have to become part of every wash. Keep your regular shampoo for your normal washes and use your toning shampoo when you actually see unwanted yellow, orange or coppery tones.

4. Notice how your hair responds:

Everyone’s hair is different. Some hair handles toning shampoo beautifully, while other hair can feel dry afterwards, particularly if it’s already porous or dry.

If yours feels dry, don’t ignore it. You may need a gentler formula, more conditioning or simply less frequent toning.

5. Give your hair some moisture:

A good conditioner or hydrating treatment can make a big difference if your hair feels dry after toning. I also like having a leave-in treatment on hand for extra softness and manageability when my hair needs it.

Related: 8 Non-Drying Purple Shampoos Perfect for Grey Hair

What If Purple or Blue Shampoo Isn’t Helping?

I’ll tell you what happened to me because this is something I learned from my own hair.

I wanted my silver to look brighter, so I started using purple shampoo more often. My thinking was pretty simple: if a little purple makes my hair look brighter, then more purple should make it even brighter.

Well… it didn’t.

My hair started looking dull and greyish-blue instead. I had simply gone too far with the pigment.

So if you’re using a purple or blue shampoo and you’re not getting the result you want, don’t assume that you need to use more of it.

Sometimes the problem isn’t the tone at all. Your hair could have product buildup on it, or, if you live in a hard-water area, it could have mineral buildup from the water.

This is where a clarifying or chelating shampoo can be useful.

A clarifying shampoo can help remove product buildup, oils and residue that may be making your hair look dull.

A chelating shampoo goes a step further and is designed to help remove mineral buildup from hard water. This can be particularly worth considering if you’ve noticed that your silver looks dull, feels heavy or doesn’t seem to respond to your usual hair products the way it used to.

Before adding more pigment, figure out what your hair is actually asking for.

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One confession I have to make at this point. For about a month, I was using L’Oréal Paris 6 Oil-Nourish Shampoo on my grey hair. The shampoo has a translucent yellow colour, and without realizing that grey hair can be more affected by colour-pigmented products, I continued using it for almost a month. It kept my hair looking slightly yellowish.

After switching to a clear regular shampoo, I noticed that my sparkles looked brighter and shinier. So, the lesson I learned? When you have grey hair, it’s better to choose clear, non-coloured styling products whenever possible.

I was curious, so I took a little opinion poll among my Instagram silver sisters community, and I was glad to know I wasn’t alone. There are plenty of women who continue using regular shampoo even after completing their gray-hair transition.

“I still use regular shampoo. (I think because of the water we have here and I don’t use a flat iron, I don’t need to use a purple shampoo). Acure is natural, organic and cruelty-free. Since my hair is on the dryer side, I use their hydrating shampoo and conditioner. I like it. It works well on my hair. Also, I wash my hair just twice a week typically.“ – Joni @jd904

    “I’m using Maui shampoo currently! I love it! In addition to other NOs, it also has no Silicone. It makes the hair feel so soft and looks so shiny, especially on the second day.” – Terry @gray.and.beyond

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